
The
unit doesn't turn on
Check
to see if there is power getting to the air conditioner by plugging
a lamp or other device into the same outlet the air conditioner is
plugged into. Check the fuses or circuit breakers if there's no power.
If the problem is not with a fuse or circuit breaker, it's time to
contact a qualified electrician to repair the outlet.
If the outlet is working but the air conditioner is not, the problem may be with one of the following:
Work on these areas of an appliance will probably require help from a qualified repair technician.
The fan runs
but the air isn't cold
Check the following:
1) Make sure the thermostat knob is
turned to the proper setting.
2) Check to see if the compressor motor is running. (The compressor
is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts located inside
the air conditioner at the center. If it is making a continuous
noise, and your air conditioner is still not cooling, there may
be a serious problem with one or more of these areas:
The air doesn't seem cold enough
If the air doesn't seem very cold, you can use a
thermometer to check the difference in temperature between the air
going into the unit and the air being blown into the room. If the
unit is working properly, the difference in temperatures should
be at least 15 degrees. If the temperature difference is less than
15 degrees you should check the following:
1) Air damper - Check to make sure the air damper is closed. If it's open, it will bring in outside air and reduce the efficiency of the unit.
2) Back cover - Many people cover their air conditioners during the winter to protect the unit from the weather and sometimes forget to remove the cover. Make sure the outside cover has been removed.
3) Condensing coils - The condensing coils are located on the side that faces outside of the room to be cooled, usually the outside. Make sure the coils are clean and free of lint, dirt and dust. Air is blown directly out through the condenser coils. If the coils are clogged, the cooling system cannot provide the cooling necessary. Pull the unit out of the wall or remove the cover to access to the coils. Blow compressed air at the coils or use a soft bristle brush to remove the dirt. Also clean any dirt build-up from the bottom of the air conditioner so the water will evaporate correctly.
The
unit runs constantly
(This is normal on some models with fans that
are set to run continually.)
If the unit is supposed to turn off and it doesn't, you will need to check the following:
1) Make sure
the unit is cooling correctly. See the section entitled "The
air doesn't seem cold enough."
2) Check the
room temperature. If the temperature is fine, try adjusting the
thermostat to a slightly higher setting. If the unit works fine,
then leave the thermostat set to the higher setting.
3) If the room is not cool enough, but the unit is running properly, the air conditioner may be undersized for the room. You can try to compensate for the size problem by closing doors or making the space smaller with partitions.
The following chart will help match the right sized unit to your room:
AREA
TO BE COOLED |
CAPACITY |
100
to 150 square feet |
5,000
BTU |
150
to 250 square feet |
6,000
BTU |
250
to 300 square feet |
7,000
BTU |
300
to 350 square feet |
8,000
BTU |
350
to 400 square feet |
9,000
BTU |
400
to 450 square feet |
10,000
BTU |
450
to 550 square feet |
12,000
BTU |
550
to 700 square feet |
14,000
BTU |
700
to 1000 square feet |
18,000
BTU |
Note: You can reduce needed capacity by 10% if the room is heavily shaded, but you will need to increase the capacity by 10% if the room receives a lot of direct sunlight. If the room is used consistently by more than two people, for each additional person using the room you should add 600 BTU. For units used in kitchens, you should add 4,000 to 6,000 BTU.
You
can hear water splashing inside the unit
Window air conditioners
remove moisture from the air. The moisture is collected in the bottom
pan of the air conditioner where it should evaporate. The water
drips down off the evaporator coils and collects in the pan at the
bottom of the air conditioner. The air conditioner will be tilted
slightly back if it is installed properly forcing the water to collect
near the back of the unit. When the fan blades spin to cool the
rear condensing coils they will come close to touching the inside
of the pan where the water has settled. If the water is deep enough
for the fan ring to touch it, the ring will pick up some of the
water and blow it at the condensing coils. The warm coils evaporate
the moisture to the outside. This is the splashing sound you hear.
If no water is leaking inside the room, there is no cause for alarm.
If there is water leaking, make sure the unit is tilted back - never drill holes into the bottom of unit to let the water escape.
The
unit rattles loudly when it turns off
Air
conditioner compressors are powerful motors. The compressor starting
up and shutting off will often cause the whole air conditioner unit
to shake or vibrate loudly. This is normal and usually can not be
eliminated.
First make sure
the air conditioner is properly mounted and secured in the window
frame. If not properly installed, when the unit shakes it could
shake free of the frame.
Also
check the compressor mounting pads and/or brackets, they could be
worn out or missing making the noise more noticeable. Often the
pads and brackets can be replaced, reducing the problem.