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General Trouble Shooting Guide |
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Determining Burner Pattern |
| To
establish the correct spray pattern, try a hollow cone nozzle with an
80 degree spray angle (a popular angle in the industry). If the pattern
is not satisfactory change to a solid cone nozzle. Reducing nozzle angle
in 10 degree increments from 80 degrees is a good way to find proper angle.
(Mobile home units usually require 90 degree spray angles. |
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Noisy Fires |
Pulsation
and thumping or rumbling can be most objectionable to a homeowner. It's
possible in some cases to correct the situation by proper nozzle selection. |
- If
the unit is fired with a solid cone nozzle, try a hollow cone or Type
W nozzle.
- If
the unit is fired with a 60 degree nozzle, the noise level can be reduced
in most cases by going to a wider angle.
- Check
to make sure the pump pressure is properly set.
- Check
the nozzle spray to be sure it is satisfactory. If the nozzle is clogged,
it may be impossible to ignite the resulting spray.
- Check
the spray pattern. Above 2.00 GPH, some burners give delayed ignition
with the hollow cone sprays, in which case a solid cone nozzle may be
the answer.
- Sometimes
the next size smaller nozzle will help. Also, the smaller droplets will
burn cleaner decreasing the amount of soot and dirt.
- Installing
a delayed opening solenoid valve on the nozzle line can usually help
pulsation during start up or shutdown.
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Cold Oil |
| Outside
storage tanks can be a source of burner problems because oil becomes more
viscous as the temperature drops. This, in turn, can result in slow ignition,
collapsing sprays and noisy fires. There have been some cases where the
oil was so cold it would not flow through the pipe.
Although
some success with special nozzles has been reported, the surest cure for
this problem is to increase the pump pressure to 120-125 psi and use the
next size smaller nozzle. The extra energy from the pump will atomize
the heavier oil, resulting in better ignition and a more stable flame.
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Delayed Ignition |
| Check
the following items: |
- Check for proper electrode setting.
- Check the insulators for cracks or for a conducting coat of soot of
oil. Cracks sometimes occur under the electrode bracket, causing a short
circuit.
- Check to see that the air shutter isn't too wide open.
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Nozzle |
GPH |
A |
B |
C |
| 45
degrees |
(.75-4.00) |
1/8"
to 3/16" |
1/2"
to 9/16" |
1/4" |
| 60 degrees |
(.75-4.00) |
1/8"
to 3/16" |
9/16"
to 5/8" |
1/4" |
| 70 degrees |
(.75-4.00) |
1/8"
to 3/16" |
9/16"
to 5/8" |
1/8" |
| 80
degrees |
(.75-4.00) |
1/8"
to 3/16" |
9/16"
to 5/8" |
1/8" |
| 90 degrees |
(.75-4.00) |
1/8"
to 3/16" |
9/16"
to 5/8" |
0 |
Recommended Electrode Settings |
| NOTE:
Above 4.00 GPH, it may be advisable to increase dimension C by 1/8"
to insure smooth starting. When using double adapters; (1) Twin ignition
is the safest and is recommended with settings same as above. (2) With single
ignition, use the same A and B dimensions as above, but add 1/4" to
dimension C. Locate the electrode gap on a line midway between the two nozzles. |
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Furnace Room Odors |
| In
the case of furnace room odor, check these items: |
- Check
the draft over the fire and make sure it is at least .02 inches of water
column. If it's lower than that, check for obstructions in the flues,
or for poor chimney draft.
- Check
to be sure that the unit is not being over fired.
- Check
to see that there is not too much air through the burner.
- Delayed
ignition also can be a cause of odors.
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Smoky
Fires
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| Since
there are a number of possible causes, it follows that there are several
things to check: |
- Check
the air handling parts of the burner. Maker sure the fan blades, air
intake and air vanes in the combustion head are clean. If dogs or cats
are kept in or near the furnace room, it's not uncommon to find hair
in the oil burner fan.
- Check
combustion chamber or the burner tube for damage. In the case of a stainless
steel chamber, it might be burned through in one or more places. Or
in the case of a brick chamber, some of the bricks might have become
dislodged, leaving openings. Sometimes a burner end cone will be burned
off or warped.
- Check
the nozzle for contamination. If clogged, it could produce an off-center
fire resulting in smoke.
- Going
to a size smaller nozzle might eliminate smoke.
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Spray
Impingement |
Spray
Impingement corrected by using a narrower spray angle |
- Check
to see if nozzle spray angle is too wide for the burner air pattern.
In this case, smoke may form at the side of the fire. The solution is
to select the next narrower spray angle.
- A
solid cone spray pattern in a burner with a hollow air pattern will
produce a smoky center in the fire. This can be corrected by changing
to a hollow cone nozzle of the proper spray angle.
- Check
for spray impingement on the walls or floor of the combustion chamber,
or at the end of the burner tube. This is a cause of carbon build-up
and smoky fires. It's usually corrected by the proper choice of spray
angle, or by going to solid cone spray pattern. If it's at the end of
the burner tube, you may have to relocate the nozzle.
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Off-Center Fires |
- May
be caused by off center location of the nozzle in the burner tube. The
nozzle tube or bracket may be bent or improperly located.
- If
the heavy flame always appears on the same side in a particular burner,
this is due to a particularity of the air pattern in that burner and
it can't be corrected by changing nozzles.
- A
nozzle contaminated by sludge or other foreign matter will usually produce
an off- center fire.
- A
hollow air pattern will sometimes pull a solid cone spray over to one
side, causing an off-center fire. This can be corrected by changing
to a hollow cone nozzle.
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Long
Fires |
| A
narrow spray angle always produces a long fire. High viscosity oil also
can be a cause since the spray angle tends to collapse. As mentioned before,
this can sometimes be solved by increasing pump pressure and going to the
next size smaller nozzle. Solid cone nozzles also produce a longer fire. |
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